A Queer Culinary Pioneer

Once upon a time, in the bustling city of Austin, Texas, a young and determined chef named Elka Gilmore embarked on an extraordinary culinary journey. But little did she know that her adventure would begin with a playful deception.

At the tender age of 11, Elka cleverly managed to secure a dishwashing job at a prestigious French restaurant. Standing on a milk crate to reach the towering stack of dishes, she skillfully navigated the kitchen, all while pretending to be much older. Within a mere three months, she had impressed her bosses enough to earn a spot on the cooking line, all the while diligently balancing her work with her studies.

It was the 1970s, a time when Gilmore's aspirations to escape her home and pursue her dreams were taking shape. At the age of 16, she made a daring decision to run away and seek refuge with her grandmother in Madison, Wisconsin. Gifted with natural culinary talent, she quickly ascended from a prep cook to the role of head chef at a restaurant called L'Etoile, where she remained until the age of 18. Over the next two decades, she embarked on a culinary journey that took her from Boston to New York, Cotignac in France, and eventually Los Angeles.

However, it was in the vibrant city of San Francisco that Gilmore truly shone as a culinary star. In 1991, she teamed up with Traci Des Jardins to open Elka, a sensational Franco-Japanese restaurant nestled in Japantown. With innovative dishes like succulent ahi tuna paired with miso eggplant and tomato-ginger jam, Elka became a dazzling showcase of both Gilmore and Des Jardins' culinary artistry. This was just the beginning of Gilmore's remarkable contributions to the Bay Area's dining scene.

Gilmore's unwavering commitment to embracing her queerness and supporting fellow queer and female culinary voices made her a beloved figure in the Bay Area's dining community. She had proudly lived her life as an openly gay woman since the age of 12, and she recognized the power of visibility and authenticity. In an interview with journalist John G. Watson, Gilmore expressed her belief that being open about one's identity could greatly benefit the world. Her philosophy was simple yet profound: "I'm a proponent of the concept that it's tremendously helpful to the world for gay people to be out," she said. "I've lived my life that way for the past 22 years or so, a significant part of my life."

With Elka, Gilmore assembled an extraordinary team of talented queer female chefs, including Traci Des Jardins as her chef de cuisine and Elizabeth Falkner as her pastry chef. Both Des Jardins and Falkner would go on to achieve their own well-deserved celebrity status. The impact of Gilmore's mentorship and support extended far beyond the walls of her restaurant. She encouraged and inspired younger queer chefs, empowering them to push the boundaries of their culinary creations. Through her private work and public influence, a queer culinary oasis seemed to flourish under Gilmore's watchful eye.

Gilmore's rise to fame in the Bay Area dining scene was notable, particularly in an industry that often skewed heavily towards male chefs. While figures like Jeremiah Tower and Gary Danko had garnered attention and acclaim, Gilmore's contributions had not received the same level of recognition. Yet, her remarkable achievements and unapologetic queerness set her apart as a pioneer and trailblazer.

In her kitchen at Elka, Gilmore fostered an inclusive and welcoming environment for her staff, reminiscent of the queer sanctuary she had once found in France. Men and women worked side by side in a rare display of gender balance for that era. Gilmore's kitchen at Elka became known as a haven for culinary creativity and diversity. The team thrived under her guidance, constantly pushing the boundaries of flavors and techniques. Critics and diners alike marveled at the innovative dishes that emerged from Gilmore's kitchen, each one a testament to her culinary brilliance and unwavering commitment to quality.